Pack up the thermal undies and cross the Atlantic… just to go skiing in France? With all that tempting Colorado and Canadian powder so close at hand? Plus Vermont? And New Hampshire?
Can we give you a good reason?
No … unless you’re heading for Megève, the French alpine resort that elevated “après ski” to an art form. The most harrowing slopes? Head for Chamonix. The most bling-bling restaurants? Megève’s a contender…. but have you seen what Yannick Alleno and Pierre Gagnaire are charging for dinner in Courcheval lately? (No contest.)
What Megève delivers is old-fashioned class. The Baroness de Rothschild decided to create a resort for the (pre) jet-set in 1919, and it’s never gone out of style. Her Chalet du Mont d’Arbois and Cocteau’s Enfants Terribles dining room still exist, although we’re putting the emphasis on 21st century Megève in this round-up. (But get a hot chocolate at the Mont d’Arbois if you’ve never done that yet.)
Worried about snow? So is everyone else in this age of global warming and Megève – at a rather low altitude – is more worried than many resorts. This year? They’re totally Zen: 2012 has every indication of being spectacularly endowed with neige.
However, snow anxiety does not trouble the Tourist Office as much as expected because – thanks to that same low altitude – Megève also offers a superb summer season: fresh air, fields of wild flowers, nature hikes (you can even see chamois on the hoof), and jazz fêtes. And that’s in addition to all the shopping (Hermès to Benetton), nightlife, and dining available in winter.
Another thing that’s surprising about Megève is its unconventionality. Hotels in other French Alpine resorts have been signing up name-brand chefs from Paris to direct their restaurants. Megève cuisine has stayed refreshingly Savoy-centric with local chefs who know their way around tartiflette. But it’s also refreshingly casual: It’s easy to find a 14€ Caesar salad in almost any eatery.
Don’t think Megève is TOO casual. The essential fashion accessory is still a two-pound Yorkshire terrier in a Prada handbag. If you need to keep up with the Viscount de Jones, think of a convincing reason why you left your Gucci pooch at home. (He hates airline food? Maybe he’s afraid of being press-ganged on a dog sled?)
If you’re fascinated by the business aspects of the ski industry, Megève is an essential pilgrimage. In the 1930s, a local tailor named Armand Allard “invented” ski pants (with elastic foot-straps) for ski-champion Emile Allais who just celebrated his 100th birthday in Megève last month. (More on the Allard store below.)
You might meet ski champion Andrien Duvillard on the slopes… if you get up early enough. When he contemplated retirement (because winning races didn’t pay much in the 1960s), Rossignol offered him the first sponsoring contract. (Of course, you might also run into him in Durango where he raises Mustangs in the summer.) Skiers are the true royalty around here.
Nevertheless, this town is more eclectic and eccentric than you’d expect. The village’s only two starred chef is a maverick ‘who doesn’t believe in stars’ and contrary to popular belief, there are hotels and restaurants in every price range. Here are our favorites: